Viverone to Santhia, 20.16km

A thunder storm during the night was dramatic and had cleared the air. Hoping for an early start, we arrived at the pasticerria soon after 8:00, but it was already hopping on a Sunday morning in the touristy town of Viverone. They provided great espresso, pastries, yoghurt and fresh fruit. We even stayed for a second capucinno when Paul realized his Apple watch had not charged during the night!

Rejoining the VF, we gradually climbed out of Viverone and along the moraine. It was pleasant countryside of woods, vineyards, orchards and meadows. Descending to Cavaglia, we had yet another coffee (ie, bathroom break!) The terrain became flatter and we found ourselves walking along unshaded tracks on completely flat farmland, with fields planted with corn, wheat and barley. We ate our lunch sitting on our groundsheet at the edge of a field. As the day got warmer, the walk across fields became more tedious, especially when the route went over and then alongside the motorway. By Santhia, we were rethinking the next few days’ walk.

Our spirits were revived when we found a cute restaurant which served antipasto like Mrs. Gobbi used to make, and lemon risotto.

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