Sunday & Monday, May 21&22, 2023

Berceto to Pontremoli

On Saturday evening, we had dinner at Restaurant Pasquinelli, close to our B&B. The menu featured flavorful prugnoli mushrooms, just in season and unique to Berceto. Apparently the mushrooms need rain and sun, alternately. Although a kilo or more had been picked a few days before, we were told that the incessant rain has resulted in a much smaller harvest.

The weather forecast was better for Sunday but we knew the steep trails would be slippery. The fact that some of our clothes, our backpacks and Lois’ shoes were still wet this morning, confirmed our disinclination to walk what would be another challenging route. We caught a lift with our bags to Pontremoli with the husband of the proprietor of our BnB, La Casa dei Nonni. We understood enough of what he said to know that he would be taking the mountain route, which crossed with the VF, rather than the autostrada, for which we were grateful and excited. While low clouds and mist continued to hang in the valleys, the views were incredible. We stopped at the top of the Passo Dello Cisa (1041m elevation), to look at where we would have walked. This mountain pass is located on the border between northern Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna, and marks the division between the Ligurian and Tuscan Apennines.

Back in Pontremoli, where we had stayed earlier, the sun was shining and it seemed that summer might be returning. We checked into the B&B Ai Chiosi, an old stone building converted to smart loft apartments, situated in the midst of gardens very close to the old town. After reading Mag’s comment about her boots smelling after wading through the river, Lois had a closer inspection of her Lowa’s, which had sat damp overnight. She immediately set about washing them in the bidet!

We headed first to the Chiesa di San Pietro, only open on Sundays, to view the fascinating medieval finger labyrinth preserved on the church wall. While we were having lunch afterwards in the piazza, Lois realized she wasn’t feeling well. She later developed a fever, which has continued into Monday. As this is the third time this has happened on this trip, we have decided to end our walk. We will take the train to Lucca tomorrow, with the hopes of spending a few days in Tuscany before heading home.

12thC finger labyrinth
Pinnochio statue in Pontremoli

16 thoughts on “Sunday & Monday, May 21&22, 2023”

  1. Ah so sorry. It must have been a hard decision to make, but best to get Lois back in good shape. Enjoy Florence. Arrivederci and see you next year

  2. I am sure it is hard to fine joy when you are hiking in cold and rain, and now Lois not feeling well.
    looking forward to catching uo once I return from Greece, June 11.

  3. So sorry!! You have given it your all, and Mother Nature absolutely did not cooperate!! Sending hugs and positive vibes for your return journey!! xoxoxoxoxo

  4. Oh feel for you both and dear Lois you need to take care. The tail is not going anywhere you can defeat it another time. Get some heat before you fly home. Love us

  5. Sorry to hear you’ve had to call it a day but it sounds a very sensible decision, I think you’ve done incredibly well to do what you have done.
    Hopefully you can enjoy some warm in dry footwear before you leave!
    You have even more tales to tell your grandchildren (and children) now! Well done to you both.
    You realise that I wouldn’t have even contemplated such an undertaking!! Xx

    1. Thanks, Liz. I was worried about my hip or inadequate training, but it seems it was my immune system that did me in!

  6. Lois, I’m sorry that you’ve had to end your trip, but it seems like the best decision. Enjoy Tuscany and have a safe and uneventful trip home.

    1. 😂 Washing them with a True Earth detergent strip and drying them in the sun seems to have worked.

  7. Hope Tuscany cooperates in providing rest and sunshine after all the battles with the elements – safe trip home. Love from us both.

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