Monday August 12, 2013. Day 67

Trois Rivières to Portneuf

We have to give a plug for Quebec’s Route Verte system of cycle routes. This network of routes, which includes marked paths, paved shoulders and designated roadways, and covers more than 5000 km of Quebec, from east to west, is a cyclist’s dream. The system also directs cyclists to Quebec’s various tourist attractions. We feel like we are on holiday, rather than trekking across the country!  After another multi-course breakfast, with delicious home-made delicacies, we set off again on Route Verte 5. Marius and Helen wanted to see a bit more of Trois Rivières, so they caught up with us on the road later. Route Verte 5, which we have been following since Montreal, has mostly followed the Chemin du Roy and has taken us through delightful villages and past a multitude of churches along the St. Lawrence. Today, we saw a windmill at Grondines, which, after two centuries of service, became a lighthouse from 1912 to 1967. We later saw a flour mill, at Deschambault, dating from 1802. A nearby bridge was destroyed by a flood in 2005 and was rebuilt with a sculpture in aluminum integrated into its sides (see photo gallery). We stopped at a fromagerie in Sainte-Anne-de-la-Pérade, where we bought some creamy Champlain and a firmer Réserve La Pérade, which we enjoyed with our oatcakes and a bottle of sparkling apple/pear juice at a picnic table outside. Just as we were packing up to leave and considering whether we were about to get rained on, another customer pointed out a flat tire on Lois’ bike. Fortunately, we missed the shower while changing the tire. Later, dinner consisted of pizza delivered to our motel and eaten outside as the sun went down.

Sanctuaire Notre-Dame-du-Cap, Trois Rivières – original chapel was built in 1714. There is a hotel for the many pilgrims that visit the shrine. Église Notre-Dame De-La-Visitation de Champlain (1879), Champlain. L’Église Saint-Charles-Des-Grondines (1838-1840), Grondines

A plaque at Batiscan states that, in 1639, Jesuits evangelized the local First Nations and encouraged them to settle in one place. It also notes that the area was frequented by Algonquin, Montagnais, Abenaki, Attikamek and Huron people.

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