Muret to Villefranche-de-Lauragais – 58km 

(D15a, D12, D817, D42, N20, D120)

Cycling today was a joy! Last evening we made a decision to try to cycle as much of the Canal du Midi as possible, which meant riding into the outskirts of Toulouse. After Muret, we had a quiet ride through villages on the banks of the Garonne, much of it on bike paths. We then had about 6km of, as Lois describes, vomit-inducing, shoulder-less cycling on the very busy Route d’Espana. Once inToulouse, we were able to take advantage of separate bike paths and bike lanes all the way to the Canal. The infrastructure was much appreciated.

We had seen the entrance to the Canal Latéral de la Garonne on a wine walking tour near Bordeaux  in 2009. This canal was joined to the Canal du Midi  (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) in the 1800’s. We had looked forward to perhaps travelling along these waterways in the future.

After Paul did some  maintainance on a brake lever,  we joined many cyclists, runners and walkers on the wide smooth path. It was paved all the way and shaded by large plane trees.   There were a number of large canal boats moored at various places, but very little traffic on the water. The path seemed flat, but  it does gradually ascend, via the locks, until the water changes direction and descends towards the Mediterranean at Seuil de Naurouze. We were surprised to read that that this feat of engineering was opened in 1692.

Arriving in Villefranche-de-Lauragais, we walked around the town, picking up some supplies. Our hotel – Hôtel and Restaurant du Lauragais – is known for its “royal cassoulet”,  made with beans, homemade sausage and  duck leg confit. When asked whether it is possible to have a vegetarian version, we were told in no uncertain terms that the meat  is “obligatoire”! The fish dishes were excellent!

We will be back on the Canal in the morning.

Saint Gaudens to Muret – 73km

(D817, D49, D15, D15a)

We had joined the Garonne River just before Saint Gaudens and today we cycled on the Garonne-Toulouse plain all the way to Muret. The only hills were bridges over the autoroute! The snow-capped Pyrenees were finally visible at sunrise and all day, while gradually receding in the distance.

We stopped for coffee in a bar in Saint Martory, not noticing the poster of Marine Le  Pen until after we ordered our espressos, which incidentally were terrible!

But then, just around the corner, we came upon a church with a 12thC portal and a Neolithic menhir just beside.

The baguette we bought yesterday was lunch, together with the rest of some sheep’s cheese, which we ate at a picnic table in Saint Elix de Chateau. Other picnickers were nearby and one walked over for a chat. They were from Belgium on their way to Lourdes. He and his son had cycled to Compostela all the way from their home a few years ago!

The challenges of finding a place to eat on the Easter weekend continued when we arrived in Muret, where most restaurants were closed and no taxis were running. We cycled into the town and up and down most streets, eventually finding a Vietnamese restaurant just opening, where we filled up on salad rolls, vegetable noodles and ginger shrimp.

We hit the 1500 km mark today!

Easter  Sunday here was very quiet. With our usual cyclers’ appetites, not quite assuaged by the typical breakfast of yoghurt, baguette, croissant and coffee, we searched in vain for a restaurant or patisserie opened on Easter Sunday.  (The one restaurant opened, in the Hotel du Commerce, was full for lunch so we booked a table for dinner.) We did find a boulangerie, where we bought a couple of baguettes (one for tomorrow, just in case), then searched for the supermarket, only to find it had closed at 12:30. Fortunately, we found a kebab house opened and were able to get good falafel sandwiches, which we ate sitting on a bench in the sunshine, looking out towards the Pyrenees (which so far, have been covered in cloud.)

Saint-Gaudens is a strange place. The city is at an altitude of 405 m on a ledge overlooking the valley of the Garonne, facing the Pyrenees. Consequently, many of the old buildings, including our hotel, have high balconies to take advantage of the view. Unfortunately, that view is dominated by an enormous pulp mill, built in the 1950’s (but without the distinctive odour that we associate with pulp mills in Canada)!

The city was originally called Mas-Saint-Pierre, before taking the name of the young shepherd, Gaudens, beheaded by the Visigoths at the end of the 5th century for refusing to renounce his faith. The wonderful Romanesque Collegiate Church of St Peter and St Gaudens contains a tapestry, showing the story of the martyrdom of Saint Gaudens, as well as in an exquisite small stained glass window. The church cloisters had been sold as a national asset in 1810! They have since been rebuilt, with original pieces and plaster casts. The smaller tower or chevet has a sculpture of a sheep on the outside.

After FaceTime chats with little ones in BC and Paris, we had a very nice meal at the Hotel du Commerce.

Oloron Sainte Marie to Tarbes – 68km (N134 & D936)

Tarbes to Saint Gaudens – 67km (D817, D938, D638, D817)

The elevation charts reflect the fact that we have been cycling across the foothills of the Pyrenees, rather than away from them. In retrospect, this was not the most sensible routing decision, but it avoided the large city of Toulouse and is the most direct route to Montpellier, where we soon get to have another visit with our new grandson and his big sister!

Oloron-Sainte-Marie is in the Aquitaine region of south-west France. The earliest inhabitants in the south-west were thought to be the Aquitani, who were not proper Celtic people, but more akin to the Iberians. It is believed that the prevailing language of Aquitaine during the late pre-historic to Roman period was an early form of the Basque language. Oloron is also famous as the capital of the basque beret.

We left Oloron in a low mist, which obscured views of the snow-capped Pyrenees and made cycling along the busy, shoulderless N134 a bit difficult. We turned off on the much quieter D936, which took us up through Rébénacq, where we stopped for coffee, and Nay, for lunch. We noticed the Musée du Béret in Nay, which sells the traditional Basque berets made in Oloron. The last 20 kms before Tarbes was flat, but once again very busy and without a shoulder. We saw signs to Lourdes, another major Catholic pilgrimage site,  and passed the Aéroport de Tarbes-Lourdes-Pyrénées, where many large passenger jets were lined up to be dismantled.

Tarbes is a large industrial town. Our hotel was new, but next to several revitalized buildings. We discovered that these were formerly an armaments factory from 1871 to 2006. Of interest is that Jean Baptiste Vechère de Reffye moved an experimental artillery workshop here from Meudon (where Chris and Shinyoung now live) to commence the production.

The region has a history of textile production which accounted for seeing many old mills. Sheep supplied wool and supply milk for very fine cheese, some of which we have been eating for lunch on the road.

Today’s ride took us through rolling countryside with the mountains to the south, covered in clouds. Lilac and wisteria were in full bloom. We passed through many villages and small towns such as Tournay, where we had coffee. This was, to us, a typical community of the area, with a busy square, plane trees, a dominant Marie and narrow streets. The small villages seemed to be dominated by agriculture. The rain, which had been forecast, held off, but it was a grey, cold day.

We are looking forward to connecting with family tomorrow, Easter Sunday, as we take a break in Saint Gaudens.

Coffee note: no espresso with a score greater than 5.5/10, as yet in France. We’re missing Portuguese espresso!

World Parkinson’s Day – April 11th

Parkinson’s Disease in Spain: The prevalence of Parkinson’s Disease can be estimated by household surveys, medication usage and clinical reports. For Spain, the prevalence of PD, as estimated by these methods, is similar to that of other European countries and Canada, which  translates into 300,000 persons in Spain with the condition. On writing about the social impact of Parkinson’s Disease in Spain,  Garcia-Romos (Garcia-Ramos R, Valdés EL, et al. Neurologica 2016; 41(6):401-13) states that, although there is at least one specialist PD unit in each of the autonomous communities, there are no specific rehabilitation programmes in any of these units, or in any public hospitals. According to the Spanish National Health System’s list of common services in 2006, rehabilitation, including physical, occupational, and speech therapy, is currently provided only for those patients with a reversible functional loss. The public health system does not therefore include treatment that patients with PD need, including physical, speech, and occupational therapy, and psychological support. As with Canada,  gaps are filled by patient associations. Garcia-Ramos reports that patients are not aware that these associations exist, and neither are they told about the benefits of these treatments. He also concludes that the direct costs of PD are in the order of 7,500 € per year, which does not take into account the financial burden on families as care givers.

Today (April 11) is World Parkinson’s Day. It was the birthday of James Parkinson, who, in 1817,  published  ‘An Essay on the Shaking Palsy’. The publication established Parkinson’s as an internationally recognised medical condition. April is Parkinson’s Awareness Month and this year marks the bicentennial of the first description of Parkinson’s disease. Please support us in our efforts to increase awareness of PD by disseminating our blog and making a donation to PSBC (see home page). Organizations such as the Parkinson Society of BC play a vital role in filling gaps in services and providing support to families.

Days off in Pamplona –  It has been such a treat to spend time with dear friends from Yellowknife, Helen and Wayne, who did a side trip to Pamplona to meet up with us. We have walked along the murallas, visited the fascinating and very informative Centro de Interpretación de las Murallas and the Catedral de Santa María, shopped in the narrow streets (Helen discovered a wool shop!), lingered over coffee and lunches in the sunny Plaza del Castillo including at the Café Iruña, one of Ernest Hemingway’s haunts. Hemingway’s relationship with the city is well described in an article in the Independent newspaper in 2011 – The old man and the city : Hemingway’s love affair with Pamplona. We also consumed a variety of pinchos, with glasses of beer and wines of Navarre, reminisced and laughed…We will miss these two!

A super bike store down the street from the hotel, Mundoraintxe, equipped us with a new mirror and kickstand for Paul’s bike, and did maintenance on the bottom bracket of Lois’ bike. We are ready to climb over the Pyrenees tomorrow!

Estella to Pamplona – 44km

We left Estella through the old town, which was lovely in the early sunlight.

We are now in the beautiful rolling foothills of the Pyrenees, which meant two very long climbs for us. We could see snow capped  mountains in the distance.

The route took us past the remains of an old Roman bridge and stone steps on the Camino at Cirauqui, and the 11th C bridge at Puente La Reina,  where the two Caminos (the Camino Franceés and the Aragonese Way) meet. The bridge was built by Queen Muniadona of Castile for use by the pilgrims.

When the N1110, which we had been following most of the way,  stopped short of Pamplona, we had a frustrating time trying to get into the city, despite being able to easily see it. When we finally made our way to the old town, we found ourselves amid throngs of people, celebrating after an organised run (20-Korrika). We dropped our things at the hotel and wandered around in the sunshine to soak up the atmosphere. More and more,  we are seeing signs in Spanish and Basque or just Basque. This is a language that is not recognizable. A look at the website of the Korrika event, for example, was not helpful. Incidentally, today, we saw that ETA, the Basque nationalist and separatist organization, had just given up a large cache of arms, having declared a ceasefire in 2011.

We are excited to be seeing old friends from our Cambridge Bay days, tomorrow. Helen and Wayne, who are holidaying in Spain, are arriving by train from Barcelona tomorrow to visit with us for a couple of days before heading on to Bilbao.

Wildlife note: vulture ?Black or Griffon (it was way up in the sky!)

Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Logroño – 52km

Logroño to Estella – 47km

NO WIND!

The hills are still with us, but with no headwind the last two days, the cycling has been a lot easier.

We are continuing to follow (in reverse) the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James), occasionally on the path itself, but mostly on roads that run alongside (N120 and 120A to Legrono; N111 & NA1110 to Estella) (sometimes the Camino is on the road) or that meet up periodically with the Camino. This Camino de Santiago, also known as the Camino Francés (the French Way), is the most popular of a number of ancient pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela, in Galicia. St. James, one of the Twelve Apostles and brother of John the Apostle, is the patron saint of Spain and, according to legend, his remains are held at Santiago de Compostela. Where before, our presence on the road or passing through a town has been generally ignored, we are now being greeted with a respectful “buen Camino!”

We have spoken to a few “pilgrims” – an Australian, a couple from New Zealand, 3 cyclists from Germany, who were finding the 25/30 km days long. A young cyclist we met today had started yesterday on her own from Pamplona and looked quite discouraged. She looked so disappointed when we said we were going the other direction. We get the impression that, at least for the hikers, there is the camaraderie and support of other hikers on the trail, which is not the case for a cyclist doing it alone.

We cycled through Rioja vineyards yesterday, the vines just starting to shoot. We had had a wonderful Rioja the night before in Santa Domingo de la Calzada; a typical blend will consist of approximately 60% Tempranillo and up to 20% Garnacha, with much smaller proportions of Mazuelo and Graciano.

After a fairly easy ride in the morning, the afternoon became more complicated when the N120 turned into an A road and we had to detour through the hilly area around Ventosa. We were later able to follow (and lose and regain) the Camino. Arriving in Logroño our first (booked) hotel refused our bikes, so we used another Lonely Planet recommendation, Hotel Calle Mayor, where we got a much better reception – the young man on the reception desk was a cyclist, who competed in long distance races and planned to cycle to and climb Mt. Blanc.

Apparently, Calle Laurel in Legroño is known for its pinchos (tapas) bars and the Australian hiker had specifically recommended Bar Soriano, for its stacked mushrooms. However, unable to wait until 8:30-9:00, we found another bar open which served various fish pinchos, all of which went down well with glasses of Rioja.

Today, we left Logroño passing over the Rio Ebro. We rode on the Camino for a while, which was lovely, walking our bikes up a steep hill through a village, then back on the road when the Camino path turned to gravel.

Just when Lois was waxing lyrically about the serenity of the day, we were overtaken by rally drivers from Torres de Rio to just before Villamayor de Monjardin (III Rallye de Circuito de Navarre).

On a good downhill stretch into Estella we stopped at Benedictine Monastry of Irache which has, for pilgrims and other travelers like ourselves we think, water fountain AND a wine fountain.

Wildlife notes: Long-legged Buzzard and Black-winged Kite.

It was wonderful to receive an email from Paul (Martin) whom we met on our cross-Canada trip in 2013 and cycled with for a few days in northern Ontario. He is an avid cyclist from the U.K. who is now living in Montreal. Hopefully we will meet up again sometime in the future!

Wildlife notes: Long-legged Buzzard and Black-winged Kite

Water AND wine fountain video

Burgos to Santo Domingo de la Calzada  – 68km

We left Burgos via the Arco de Santa Maria and along the cycle path east along the river to the N120. This road follows the Camino de Santiago. We had hoped for perhaps not an easy, but at least a contemplative ride on, or alongside, the pilgrimage route. But, it was not meant to be. A continuing strong, gusty northwest wind, together with a constant, heavy stream of truck traffic were an assault on all our senses. We chose not to cycle on the unpaved surface of the Camino, but even if we had, much of it was beside the highway, so it would not have removed us from the insistent drone of the traffic.

There were a few hikers on the trail and some cyclists, like us, taking the highway. The traffic and the hills didn’t allow for much communication, apart from brief greetings and waves. We were curious to know what it was like hiking this part of the Camino so close to a busy road.

As we climbed, we were surrounded by mixed forest. We hit our highest point so far, at Puerto de La Pedraja (1150 m). Descending to Villafranca Montes de Oca, we stopped for lunch of soup and grilled hake. Later, we passed over the Rio Oja. We are now in Rioja wine country.

In the afternoon, we were surprised to see caves and a church on a sandstone cliff above Tosantos. According to Wikipedia, 800 years ago a woman, known as La Ermita, lived in a cave in the cliffs above Tosantos and ministered to the passing Pilgrims.

By the time we cycled into the attractive old town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, the wind had finally dropped somewhat. We hope this bodes well for tomorrow.

We are staying in a hotel that is an adaptation of a thousand-year old Pilgrims’ Hospital.

Cultural highlight: Burgos Cathedral – UNESCO world heritage site

Coffee of note: Cafe Latino, Calle de Lain Calvo, 20

Valladolid to Torquemada – 80km

Torquemada to Burgos – 92 km

45% of Spain is covered by the Meseta Plateau, a high plateau which is rarely flat, and is in reality a mostly hilly highland area divided by the Cordillera Central and then ringed by additional mountain ranges, north, east and south. So, the plains we were so relieved to see a few days ago were, in fact, illusionary, at least from the perspective of cycle tourers!

We have gone from the rich red soil further south to a stark and arid land, with very few trees. Where cereal crops are growing, there are extensive irrigation systems, including an old canal system. The clay-coloured villages blend into the landscape, with only a church spire or grain elevator to distinguish them from the rocky outcrops.

The weather has been sunny, but cold. The temperature drops to around zero at night, warming up a little by the afternoon. We are still cycling in most of our layers.

Even the most direct routes on minor roads where bicycles are permitted take us either meandering down into river valleys or up through hilltop fortress towns. Although the road surfaces are generally good, our route on Monday included a tiring 20 km stretch of patched and broken asphalt on the P131.

It is a region of wind turbines; at times we were surrounded. Just before Torquemada, we passed by the castle of Hornillas de Carrato with the hills behind dotted with windmills and pock-marked with caves from gypsum mining. The approach to Torquemada is over a lovely bridge. It is an ancient town which was the birthplace of the first Grand Inquisitor of the infamous “Spanish Inquisition”, Tomás de Torquemada.

We were starving when we arrived in Torquemada, as, being Monday, we had failed to find anywhere opened for a midday meal. Lunch was 1/2 apple each, some salted peanuts and chocolate beside the road! (Note to file: stock up on oat cakes, or Spanish equivalent.) We found a bar open at 7:00 pm, but we could only get a drink. We headed back to the “hostal” for showers and to wait for the cafe next door to open at 8:30. Despite its rather shabby appearance, we had a good meal of fresh salad, fried eggs and fries, homemade cheesecake with local blackberry preserves and local wine. The proprietor, who spoke French, told us how to get onto the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, heading north to Castrojeriz.

There was a brutal cold headwind as we headed out the next morning, which didn’t let up for the 90 km ride. As we have found, we can usually find decent espresso in bars in small villages in Spain. They may not appear open. but through the door we have found a warm welcome. Villalaco looked almost deserted, but the bar was open, also serving as a restaurant and grocery store. As we enjoyed our coffees, the owner was replacing the white embroidered curtains with freshly starched ones. Just as we were leaving the village, having a look at the ancient church, the peace was broken by a continuous honking which heralded the fish seller, who parked in the central plaza and waited for customers.

We joined the Camino at the town of Castrojeriz, which is dominated by a high hill with a castle at the summit. There were a few pilgrims/hikers along the road leaving the town. After about 9 kms, the Camino turned into a track. Following the advice of John Higginson, on cycling the Camino de Santiago, we went across country to join the N110 into Burgos. Unfortunately, the wind and hills continued unabated which led to a long afternoon and evening. The last 32 kms took almost 4 hours.

We are having a rest today in Burgos and going to see – you guessed it, the cathedral!

Castle sightings: 3

 Alaejos to Vallalodid – 68km

Paul missed his oatmeal this morning – breakfast in the bar of the posada was thick slices of toasted bread with butter and jam and coffee con lèche/espresso. He did find more sustenance later with a large slice of tortilla de patatas at a coffee stop near Tordesillas (a place known for the treaty signed in 1494 which divided newly “discovered” lands outside Europe between Portugal and the Crown of Castille. That treaty did not originally give Brazil to Portugal.)

Just after coffee, the flat, straight N620 (which we assume is an old Roman road) disappeared. The Garmin took us up and into the town before we lost confidence in its ability to get us back on route. (The maps on the Garmin are not always completely up to date and we aren’t carrying paper maps with us of a large enough scale to be useful in such circumstances.) Switching to Google Maps, we headed out of town in another direction (stopping for what appeared to be a charity walk), soon ending up on a forked gravel road. In spite of the gravel and the adamant advice from a young woman walking by that we could not get to Valladolid that way, Paul was reluctant to give up faith in our one other source of technological guidance! Lois did not view this as an entirely rational approach. It should be noted that Lois is the keeper of the Garmin, and Paul, Google Maps. Rather promptly, we were retracing our route back through Tordesillas, now an hour since we had pedalled into the town. With allegiance switched back to Garmin, we took the VP-5805 and VP-5806 (the latter at the suggestion of a road cyclist who convinced us it would be quicker). It was much hillier than the N620, but with beautiful scenery, also taking us through the delightful village of Simancas, with its Citadel, dating from the 9th Century, which now houses the national archives. We were also excited to see a signpost to the Camino de Santiago de Compostelo. We hope to join part of this pilgrimage trail from Burgos.

Salamanca to Alaejos – 55km

Today’s quick ride was uneventful, with no rain on the plains in Spain and a helpful, if chilly, tailwind. Of note were two sightings of Hoopoes.

Our stop at the town of Alaejos was chosen because it is halfway to Valladolid, but we soon discovered it has an interesting history, related in part to an uprising of communeros in 1520.

Another fact, of more relevance to our cycle trip, is that Alaejos is the Antipodes of Wellington, New Zealand! (We knew northern Spain was important for this purpose) According to established rules (Guidelines for Human Powered Circumnavigation) a true circumnavigation of the earth must

• Start and finish at the same point, traveling in one general direction
• Reach two antipodes (Two diametrically opposite places on Earth).

The old city of Salamanca richly deserves its designation as a UNESCO world heritage site. It has many remarkable cathedrals, churches, plazas, convents, houses and museums; including the Cathedral Nuevo, the Cathedral Vieja and the Museo de Art Noveau y Art Deco.  We had a fascinating two days and could have spent a lot longer here, but we must move on!

Restaurants do not open for dinner in Spain until 8pm or later. Last night, we were at the Lis Restaurant when the doors were unlocked at 8:30. When we left at 10:00, no one else had yet come in, but we were assured that it would be full “later”!

Ciudad Rodrigo to Salamanca – 89km

We left Ciudad Rodrigo later than hoped as there was nowhere we could get breakfast before 0900. This, we will have to get used to in Spain! Having lost two hours in the last three days (one to daylight saving time and the second through crossing the border), perhaps it was just as well.

The only way in and out of the old city is through the narrow city gates.

The N620 continued to be very quiet, with a wide hard shoulder. This was our longest distance so far on this trip, but, now on the plains of the Meseta Central, we made good time.

The wide expanse reminded us of cycling across the Canadian prairie. The land was predominately pastureland, with some cultivation (wheat?) and groves of what we now know to be the holm oak, an evergreen with many uses. The soil is a rich red. To the far south, we could see the snow-topped Sierra de Gredos.

White Storks continued to be a source of great interest for Paul and he counted 37 active nest before we reached Salamanca.

We hit our first steep hill of the day as we cycled up into the old city of Salamanca (is there a pattern here?) where we are staying in the lovely Salamanca Suite Studios (Lonely Planet).

We enjoyed the evening strolling through the Place Mayor and onto the wonderful Restaurant Vinodiario close to the Convento San Esteban.

Vilar Formosa to Ciudad Rodrigo – 28km

We’re in Spain! It was strange to see the empty customs booths and immigration buildings still there as we cycled across the border. Stopping to take a photo beside the EU Spain sign, Paul felt an old unease bringing out his camera at a border crossing. It did not help that there were sniffer dogs ahead!

Our ride was an easy one, flying along on an almost flat and quiet N620. It is still cool at this time of year, at 500 m elevation, but apart from a few clouds, we had blue sky, with little wind. What a change!

We arrived in Ciudad Rodrigo before lunch and made our way up into the old walled city to the Hospedería Audencia Real, a 16th C inn and now charming boutique hotel (Lonely Planet). Between lunch in the plaza outside the hotel and a later stop for a glass of sangria, we explored and walked the perfectly intact medieval wall, with views of the countryside in all directions.

In 1812, combined forces of England and Portugal stormed the city and, after a ten day seigle, pushed out the French army who had taken it in 1810.

Wildlife notes: Two active White Stork nests in the countryside and many many more in the city.

São Miguel da Guarda to  Vilar Formosa – 42km

Our last day in Portugal gave us reasonable weather and reasonable hills! The terrain reminded us of the moors of the UK, with granite, mist and lichen-wrapped trees, with the exception of the vineyards, of course! It felt a long way from Lisbon.

We checked in to our 2-star hotel in Vilar Formoso shortly after lunch and wondered why we hadn’t cycled on to Ciudad Rodrigo. The room was cold (we had ignored Trip Advisor reviews of “super frio” and “frio frio” as there were few other options) and the view from our window was uninspiring. It soon began to rain heavily. Eventually, around 6:30 we had to go in search of food, despite the rain and the fact that of the restaurants that were open on a Monday evening, most  would not be open for another hour. Stopping at a pastelaria, hoping for a grilled cheese sandwich, the proprietor informed us that they were closing, but that the restaurant down the street was open. We walked into the Café Oliveira, where the proprietors were sitting watching TV, looking quite disconcerted when we entered. We realised later, that, although the door said “Aberto”, they didn’t open for dinner until 7:00.  It turned out to be a most charming evening and good meal (salad, grilled Marlin and home-made cheesecake, made with cheese from Burgos) and the owner was delightful (and very impressed with our cycle trip and number of grandchildren!)

Further thoughts on the eucalyptus. Paul has been curious about the pervasive planting of eucalyptus, introduced in the later 19th C, to the point of sending a number of emails to Lois’ brother, Brian, a lumber expert. We have assumed that the indigenous forests have long since disappeared, but wondered why eucalyptus has replaced indigenous species. Although an important source of pulp now, the trees are not without controversy; their effects on the water supply and flora have drawn protests.

Thankyou, Portugal, for your boa hospitalidade! You have set the bar high for the rest of our trip, with your friendliness , history and architecture, great food, fine wines, good roads, respectful drivers and pristeen bathrooms!  Até nos encontrarmos de novo.

 Wildlife notes: Many days ago in the Mondego river valley we saw several pairs of Black Kites that would have returned from Africa to nest; a red fox on a quiet road two days ago and today flocks of Azure-winged Magpies.

Celericos da Beira to São Miguel da Guarda 24km

Voyages, voyagers – so many different types! So many nationalities in the world! Many professions! Many people! So many different purposes you can give to life, In this life that, after all, deep down, is always, always the same! So many curious faces! All faces are curious And nothing stirs piety in us as does looking at people. Brotherhood is not, ultimately, a revolutionary idea. It’s something we learn through life, where we have to tolerate everything, And we find grace in what we have to tolerate, Until we nearly weep with tenderness for what we once only tolerated!                         Fernando Pessoa

Soon after leaving the cobbled streets and fortress of Celorico, we started an epic climb on the IP3. It was 6km of 8-10% grades. The scenery was spectacular and we happened upon a shepherd with his mountain dog, puppy and sheep beside the highway. But the winds were against us and it started to rain steadily and heavily near the top. By the time we got to São Miguel da Garda we were getting wet and cold, and with 40km still to go, we decided to call it a day.

Neither of us has much familiarity with Portuguese literature, apart from the (translated) works of José Saramago, whom we both love. One of our favourite Saramago novels was The History of the Siege of Lisbon.  A couple of other books, not by Portuguese authors, but Portugal-related that we have been recalling during our ride through the country include Yann Martel’s The High Mountains of Portugal, and Night Train to Lisbon by Swiss author  Pascal Mercier.

Viseu to Celorico de Beira – 56km

It was a stunning day, as we climbed steadily on the N16 up into mountain country.  We had fine views of the snow covered Serra da Estrela and recalled our conversation yesterday with the proprietor of the VeloCafé. He told us about the great cycling in the Parque. He was also proud to know Tiego Ferreira, the world marathon mountain bike champion who comes from Viseu and frequents his store.

It was a cold ride at first, with hail ( see video) and rain, but eventually the sun came out. The inclines continue to be arduous at times. We are glad that we had planned shorter rides for the beginning of this tour – a 55km ride in the hills of Portugal feels like a 80km ride in our previous experience!

The road ran through villages with cobbled streets, which are probably easier to maintain and more sustainable than asphalt, but are somewhat reminiscent of riding on rumble strips (see video)! A particularly pretty town was Mangualde, where we stopped for lunch. Paul is enjoying the sardines!

Tomorrow will be our last ride in Portugal. Our first experience of this fascinating country has been amazing. We are now looking forward to the high (level) plains of Spain.

Hail!
Cobblestones…

Old Viseu is a beautiful, well-preserved medieval city. It is the kind of place we would have loved to linger in, exploring narrow cobbled streets and the city’s historical and architectural richness, not to mention the wonderful food and elegant Dão wines. We did visit the Sé (13thC cathedral), the 18thC Igreja da Misericórdia and the Museu Grão Vasco, which houses important works by Viseu’s own Vasco Fernandes (Grão Vasco). We also spent a lot of time in pastelarias, just trying to warm up!

Coffee in Portugal is a revelation! Wherever we have gone, we have had excellent espresso. Apparently, during the time of the Salazar dictatorship, most coffee came from the erstwhile colonies, such as Brazil, and the people gained a taste for a stronger, more bitter coffee. Delta coffee is, for example, available in even the smallest communities, where it is made with classic espresso machines with fine results.

We have also tasted many great Portuguese cheeses made from the milk of cows, sheep and goats. One of special note, Azeitão, is made from curds thickened with vegetable rennet derived from artichoke thistles (see photo).

Parkinson’s note: according to research by Dr Joachim Ferreira et al, the prevalence of PD in Portugal is in the order of 180/ 100,000 total population (2400/100,000 for those >50yrs). This is similar to the estimate for Canada of 1:500 people and seems to be in line with other estimates. Dr Ferreira and his colleagues thought that because of the high prevalence of the LRRK-2 gene in Portugal the prevalence might have been higher. This gene is prevalent in North Africa and its presence in Portugal may be related to the Moorish occupation of the country centuries ago. Given the length of time that those with PD are affected by symptoms, the prevalence of the disease is significant.

Coimbra to Santa Comba Dão – 59km

Santa Comba Dão to Viseu – 51km

Packing up in the rain at the Cafe Vale Martinhlo

There is a dusting of snow on the rooftops in Viseu seen from our hotel window this morning! Again (see LEJOG 2015), we have gone from cycling in 25C to 1C over the course of a week! At least, we have now solved the problem of wet feet (Gore-tex socks) and hands (Sealskinz and Gore-tex waterproof gloves).

The route from Coimbra to Viseu was lovely, following the N110 and N2 along the Rio Mondago, past farmyards and groves of pine, eucalyptus, orange and olive trees, fragrant in the early morning mist. Our only cycling challenges were in the stretch between Raiva and Santa Comba Dão, where we weren’t allowed on the IP3, so had to find a longer, hillier alternative.

It took us a while to locate the Ecopista Do Dão, an old railroad recently converted into a wonderful 49km walking/cycling path between Santa Comba Dão and Viseu. The start/end of the trail is near the railway station for Santa Comba Dão, across the Rio Dão (a tributary of the Rio Mondago). Our B&B near Santa Comba Dão, the Vale Martinho, located a few kms south of the trail (straight up!), was a 200-year old stone farmhouse, with a modern addition. The owner, Faizal, moved to Portugal from Mozambique with his family when he was thirteen. His grandparents were originally from Goa in India. Faizal also runs a restaurant near the B&B, where he serves Indian and African dishes, as well as Portuguese. His plan is to move the restaurant to the B&B, which would be primarily for guests and small parties with reservations. We had an interesting conversation about a number of subjects, including the Portuguese economy, the EU and Brexit.

We woke to the sound of heavy rain, which was almost monsoon-like as we cycled up to the restaurant for breakfast. We could feel the temperature dropping, later registering 1.6C on our Garmin. Back on the Ecopista Do Dão, we had an easy, if chilly, ride, with frequent showers verging on freezing rain. We stopped for lunch and to warm up at a restaurant in the old Farminhão Station. We should note here that, in many of the smaller restaurants, there is a fixed menu, not necessarily written down, and primarily meat focussed. In this case, a quick look at the menu suggested no fish or vegetarian options. Having a bit more confidence now, we asked if we could have tosta mista sin carne (toasted ham and cheese without the ham!) e salada. The owner suggested we might also like the sopa de peixe (today was Swordfish), just being prepared, which was delicious and worth waiting for!

Just after checking in to our hotel in Viseu, it began to snow! We will take a couple of days off to enjoy this ancient city before heading east towards Spain. Hopefully, the weather will improve!

ps: For those who have inquired, the Right to Dissent is now available in print on Amazon (with many thanks to our son, Christopher, for help in formatting and e-publishing). This is not a sales pitch, as Lois does not receive royalties (the book was written as a pro bono project for Lawyer’s Rights Watch Canada)  and nor does LRWC make a profit on sales, as it is priced so as to be as accessible as possible.  But, we would appreciate spreading the word to those who might benefit from a greater understanding of human rights concerning the right to protest.

We started our morning wanderings with espressos at Nicola Cafe, before visiting the Romanesque Old Cathedral, Sé Velha, built in the 12thC and with its 13thC Gothic cloisters. Also designed to be a fortress against a Moorish threat (Coimbra had been a Moorish stronghold for centuries, but were evicted by Christians in 1064).

Lunch at Maria’s again, and then the afternoon spent touring the campus of the University of Coimbra, founded in 1290, one of the oldest continuing universities in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  We were particularly impressed by the Old (Joanine) Library, with its rosewood, ebony and jacaranda tables, frescoed ceilings and gilt chinoiserie bookshelves,  stacked with 300,00 ancient texts. It has a colony of resident bats that feed on insects that threaten the pages of the books. Passing by above the Ceremonial Hall (Sala dos Capelos), we noticed that a PhD oral defense was going on (in English).  The candidate was in academic robes and was facing up to 6 enrobed jurers. We couldn’t hear enough to identify the subject, but did pick up a reference to “a rise in populism” and its relationship to a “tension between liberalism and democracy”. Very topical!

We ended the day at a Fangas, a tapas bar, where we had a superb selection of dishes, including Rabaçal  cheese, bean and mushroom stew, chestnuts and caraméliséd onions, with glasses of excellent local wine from the Baga grape.

Back on our bikes tomorrow!

Pombal to Coimbra – 40km

The morning’s cycle was on an undulating highway, more like cycling across Canada – noisier and less pleasant than the hilly Portuguese countryside, but quicker and easier! It was cooler and we missed the aroma of eucalyptus, pine and flowering trees that have accompanying us.

We had booked a couple of nights at the Casa Pombal, a quirky B&B at the top (!) of the old town. Fortunately, we were able to follow a road up to the top, so avoided the narrow, twisting cobbled lanes of the old town. Paul had to carry our bikes upright down a narrow staircase to an outside courtyard.

We spent the afternoon and evening wandering the streets of this fabled university city, sampling meringues and attending a Coimbra Fado concert at the Fado ao Centre. In Coimbra, Fado is performed only by male students or alumni of Coimbra university. One of the well-known songs performed was a Farewell song for the graduating students of law in 1989, the year Lois graduated from law school! Dinner was a feast of fresh and innovative Portuguese vegetarian food at Maria Portuguesa, a recommendation from our B&B.

Looking back on our first week in Portugal and first week back on our bikes, we are now beginning to get into a rhythm. As perhaps overly emphasized (!), the hills have certainly been a little tough at the beginning of a trip, but our experience in Portugal has been so positive. People are extremely friendly and helpful and welcome our awkward attempts to communicate. (We can order coffee and egg custard tart : dois cafés (doish cafesh) e doish pasteis, por favor.) Others go out of their way to help, such as the couple yesterday who saw us on a pullout beside the IC2 and reversed to ask if we needed help. We explained that we were looking for an alternative route to Pombal that would avoid this very busy shoulder-less highway. The driver patiently worked out a cross-country route and his partner, who spoke English, wrote out each of the town names along the route for us. We didn’t think to ask their names or give them our card until they pulled away, but we are very grateful for the kindness of this couple.

The countryside is beautiful, especially at this time of year as trees and bushes are flowering. The route since Lisbon has been primarily rural, passing small farms, orchards and forests. The history and architecture are fascinating and the food, always so important to long-distance cyclists, is delicious. We are enjoying trying wines from different regions of Portugal, and, of course, the port is a regular feature, particularly here in Coimbra.

Our cycle legs are improving and we will need them for the big hills on the way to Spain. We are encouraged by the donations people have made to Parkinson Society British Columbia so far and more will help spur us along!

Parkinson’s thought for today: cycling has been shown to be an effective form of exercise even for those who have severe walking difficulties. The attached article and videos sent to us by Joaquim Ferreira illustrate this dramatically.

Santarem to Fátima – 60km (aka the hilly pilgrimage)

Given Lois’ Catholic upbringing, a ride through Portugal without visiting Fatima seemed, well…sacrilegious. By the third long hill, we were  feeling significantly less devoted.

Fuelled with an espresso and cappuccino at Pascoalini Geladaria near the hotel,  we left Santarem cycling back down the very steep Rua Alexandre Herculano (N3).  Winds continued to be a problem throughout the day, but the sunshine provided some compensation..

Cycling through Pernes, we detoured to do a ride/walk through the farmers’ market, which was busy, with lots of stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables, cheese, olives, salted cod, bedding plants and fruit trees.  One stall was smelling large round sausage-like donuts called Farturas, which we shall have to try.

After the first very long climb, we stopped for lunch of grilled perch and onions, fries and salad in a small restaurant where a midday meal, with beer/wine and coffee seemed to be the norm., at least for the men! We then debated the route (longer, flatter option against the wind or shorter steeper option with less wind) and got advice from the proprietor, which we were not sure was informed. We chose the shorter route. The next two hills were really steep (9% at times), but at least the wind had dropped or was behind us. We were grateful for the relative flat final kms into Fátima . Our hotel is near the Sanctuary which we will visit in the morning.

On recommendations from our trusty Lonely Planet guide, we visited the Convento de S. Francisco and the calm of it’s cloisters, the Mercado Municipal, the Jardín Portas do Sol with fine views of the Tejo, the Iglesia de Nossa Senhora da Marvila with walls covered in tiles (azulejos), and the Igelsia de Nossa Senhora da Graça with it’s gothic arches. The “discoverer” of Brazil, Pedro Álvares Cabral, is buried here.

Many of the traditional dishes in Portugal include fish, particularly cod (bacalhau). Lunch today at the Taberna Sebastião was breaded fried shad and açorda de alto – a thick bread stew, which today included fish eggs. One of our favourite dishes so far has been cod cakes and of course, the pasteis. We also discovered a regional cake, Pamilhos, which we experienced today in gelato!

Parkinson’s note for today: Our story was aired on Portuguese TV!

Caldas da Rainha to Santarém – 54km

Other observations about the CNS  which we neglected to mention yesterday – There is an emphasis on involving family members or caregivers in their programs. The apartments are set up to accommodate a couple, with kitchen facilities. The residential program is designed to enable individuals to practice applying the techniques and strategies learned from the respective rehabilitation programs in everyday life situations during their stay. As noted earlier, the importance of exercice, both physical and neurological, was evident. Although a new facility, CNS attracts people from counties around the world, including Canada. The centre receives no government funding.

The ride today was pleasant, although tiring. A constant headwind (now from the east) and the hilly terrain continue to challenge our still-developing muscles and stamina. At one point we had to pedal down a 7% descent! However, the sunshine and pleasant countryside made it an enjoyable ride. On leaving Caldas da Rainha, we bumped along cobblestones through the old town and past the hospital which now houses the thermal baths of the town. We could not avoid a steep climb out to the main road to pick up the N114.

The road meandered through farmland with ancient vineyards and orchards of olive, pine and fruit and nut (?) trees just beginning to bud with pink and white blossoms. On one roadside break we realized that we were standing by a cork tree that had been partially harvested. We had noticed cork products in the shops in Lisbon but had never seen a live tree!

Our approach into Santarém somehow got us on to a busy twinned highway (N3), which we rapidly exited to climb and climb, eventually walking our bikes up to the hilltop city. Looking down over the river Tejo (Tagus) and the plains to the south, it struck us that not all cycling in Portugal needs to be uphill! As we plan to visit Fatima next, however, the hills will continue a bit longer. We are taking a day off in Santarém.

Wildlife notes: two active white stork nests. One on an old palm tree and the other on an old chimney.

Torres Vedras to Caldas da Rainha – 45km

After breakfast in the Campus cafeteria, we were given a tour of the facility by 3 of the staff members – a physiotherapist, speech language pathologist and the head nurse. Opened just three years, the CNS is a unique facility. CNS offers a Movement Disorders Unit and an inpatient Neurorehabilitation Unit for people with PD and other movement disorders, e.g. Huntington’s Chorea. A brochure indicates, “Based on the current level of evidence and clinical expertise in neurology and movement disorders, the CNS rehabilitation program places its focus on building up disease-specific work from core rehabilitation areas, such as: physical capacity, transfers, body posture, reaching and grasping, balance, gait, cognition, speech and swallowing.”

Although clearly not accessible to everyone, being privately run, it provides the kind of multidisciplinary programs that should be available to all persons with PD. There is a capacity for 80 people and a number have decided to stay permanently. There are currently around 60 residents. Payment is private but some services may be covered by insurance. We were told that a residential stay of a month, with all rehab programs and other services, including meals, would run around €4,000-€5,000. The staff we met were young, enthusiastic and very well informed. It is important to them that they are able to provide specialized services primarily for PD patients and persons with other movement disorders. There are 7 physiology and 5 speech language pathologists, as well as occupational therapists, psychologists and other professionals. They offer programs for day patients as well as for those there for a few days or weeks. Research is a fundamental part of the work relating not only to therapeutic initiatives but very importantly on rehabilitation techniques. It helps that there is a well equipped gym, pool and extensive grounds for exercise. The staff emphasized that the facility is designed to be attractive and comfortable and non-institutional. It has the air more if a resort or spa, rather than a health facility.

After a group photo with the staff and Dr. Ferreira, we headed off to Caldas da Rainhas, via the medieval town of Obidos, where we had been told there was a chocolate festival. Unfortunately, the festival was only on at the weekends, but we did sample a Portuguese tradition – Ginja (sour cherry liqueur), served in a tiny chocolate cup.

The wind was against for a second day and tomorrow, as we head east, it is turning into a headwind again!

Wildlife Note: A buzzard and several white storks wheeling high in the air presumably returning from Africa.

Lisbon to Torres Vedras – 57 km

We had been approached by a reporter from SIC, a national TV company, to do a feature on our trip (organized by Dr. Ferreira). We arranged to meet Sofia and her cameraman in the Praça do Marquês de Pombal. This plaza celebrates the politician who led the reconstruction of the city after the devastating earthquake of 1755.

With the help of Google Maps and new bike paths, we managed to navigate our way out of Lisbon without difficulty, mercifully avoiding the impossibly steep hills we had been traversing by foot all weekend.

The TV crew filmed us leaving the city and then regularly along the way. They would pass us and wait for action shots by the side of the road. When we stopped for coffee and lunch, they joined us and we had engaging conversations not only about the trip and Parkinson’s Disease (PD), but also about Portugal. After interviewing us us in a park in Loures, we headed off again and they left us soon after. We are looking forwarding to seeing the story.

The weather was sunny and warm, but a brisk north headwind and some very long hills made it a tiring first day ride. Arriving at CNS (situated at the top of a steep and winding road), we were made very welcome by Dr. Joachim Ferreira and accommodated in one of the very spacious apartments used for short-term patients and visitors.

Joachim and his wife, Natalie, were gracious hosts, treating us to a lovely meal in their home. Our conversation was wide ranging and gave us some insight into the history, language and economic situation of the country. We also discussed PD, of course. We look forward to learning more about the CNS tomorrow morning.

Facts: In May 2016 Portugal went for four days using only sustainable energy sources

We have really enjoyed our brief sojourn in Lisbon. On Friday, we climbed the Torre de Belém, saw the Jerónimos Monastery and savoured pastéis de nata nearby. Today, we found “cornucopia” with the same delicious filling in a pastelaria near the Cafe A Brasileira.

This establishment was the favourite haunt of the famous and fascinating Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa, whose bronze statue watches over the patio.

The Castelo de São Jorge overlooks the city and yesterday we ascended in an ancient tram to see the finely preserved defences.

In the evening, we entered the Barrio Alto and after sampling Portuguese wines, went to the Tasca Do Chico for tapas and Fado music. The instrumentation and singing is unique and evocative. Ever since we saw a documentary about the music a few years ago at the Vancouver International Film Festival, we have been eager to experience it first hand and were not disappointed. The bar was overflowing by the time we left.

As usual, we have been sampling the espresso bars and discovered two that we scored at 9 and 10/10! This morning we visited the Museum Nacional de Arte Contemporânea and saw very interesting examples of Portuguese art which reflected trends in Europe in the last century. Lois was particularly taken by the works of Lourdes Castro.

Tomorrow is Day 1 and we will be cycling north to Torres Vedras to visit the Campus Neurológico Sénior , where we will be meeting with and hosted by Dr Joachim Ferreira, a neurologist specializing in Parkinson’s Disease and other movement disorders. We will spend the night there in the Campus residences.

We are in Lisbon! It had been a hectic last few weeks refining our itinerary, getting our bikes serviced and ready for the trip, final trips to the icebreaker store, Wanderlust, West Point Cycles and On the Rivet, sending out posters to promote Parkinson’s fundraising to our favourite businesses (thank you, Terra Breads Cafe for posting!), readying our condo for rental (lease to be signed imminently) and having a final Parkinson’s planning meeting with Marg and Allan. We said goodbye to family and friends, including a trip to Prince George to see Lois’ 96-year old mom and a fun weekend getaway to Harrison Hot Springs with our daughter, son-in-law and 3 grandchildren. For those we did not get to see, we will be in touch, virtually. As always, it is difficult to say goodbye to our children and grandchildren, who we will miss dearly, but whose support for these adventures we appreciate enormously.

We left Vancouver for Paris on the morning of February 24, 2017, to visit our son, daughter-in-law and granddaughter in Meudon-la-Forêt, while awaiting the birth of our fifth grandchild. A beautiful boy (our second grandson) arrived March 2. We are still over the moon!

Finally, it was time to get on the road. It was an easy cycle from Meudon to Montparnasse, picking up a cycle trail from Châtillon into the city. We soon got used to riding our bikes “fully loaded” again and it felt good to be on them. We are both carrying even less weight than on previous trips, with Lois having replaced her 40 litre panniers with 30 litre ones. One way we have achieved this is by choosing clothes that can double as both cycle and casual wear. Lois is not convinced, however, that she will be able to cycle through Europe without acquiring a pair of frivolous shoes!

On the recommendation of our son, Chris, we had a delicious meal at a Breton crêperie near our hotel. Our hunt for the ultimate espresso began again the following morning at Caffé Juno (7/10). We must learn that to truly assess a roast – no milk.

We left Paris in a small 2nd class TGV carriage with our bikes strapped next to us. A great arrangement.

We were concerned about catching our connection in Irun 6 hours later (20 minutes to change trains) and became even more anxious when we read the small print in Spanish on our ticket. Two bikes are allowed in a sleeper on the Trenhotel, but they must be dismantled and boxed. Arriving in Irun, we had given up the idea of confronting the policy, but on the platform by the train with a few minutes to spare, we were waved on and into our compartment. We weren’t sure what we were being asked to do by the train attendant, who kept shouting “Montez”?, but we managed to close the door and put down the beds by removing the wheels and taking off the handlebars, which seemed acceptable.

Dinner was next, but sitting at the bar soon after departure, we were informed by the same attendant that the fish dish was “finished”, as were all the other main courses, despite the fact that we understood the train began in Irun, so soup, cheese, Spanish wine and slices of pineapple sufficed! We had a pleasant conversation in French with an older couple who seemed to be dividing their time between France and Portugal.

Arriving at Lisboa Santa Apolónia station at 7:30 am, after a rather interrupted night, we assembled our bikes on the platform and walked them through Alfama, given the level of construction activity. An espresso stop helped get us up the very steep cobbled sidewalks of the city. At the bottom of a very long set of steps, a restauranteur came out to direct us up a more bike-friendly route, and at the top of a another particularly steep hill, Lois was aided by an armed officer on duty outside of the HQ of the national guard!

Our apartment is a great find (Lonely Planet) and close to the Copenhagen Coffee Lab (espresso 9/10), which also serves (cold) oatmeal and full cream yoghurt with homemade granola for breakfast. Later, while Lois was having a massage, Paul visited the Museu da Água where an aqueductal system built in the 18C provided water from outside the city. After a late lunch, we purchased bread, cheese, wine and pastries for an al fresco meal on the terrace behind our apartment.

After the chilly, windy and rainy weather in Vancouver and Paris, we were looking forward to warmer weather in Lisbon, but the high of 25C even took the locals by surprise.

We will spend the weekend seeing some of the sights of this charming city, before heading off on our bikes on Monday.